Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Trek 660 Needs New Home


I don't know how this will go. I bought a 28 year old bike, poured some money into upgrades, and now its for sale. I suppose it might take just the right kind of buyer for me to get the value of the bike, plus most of my upgrade cost, in a sale. But that's how I'd like to start. Since I've added nicer wheels, brakes, bars, brake levers, cables, much nicer tires, and a spendy saddle, I'd like about $850 for it. We'll split the shipping.



It's not in perfect condition. It's got a few scratches that have been touched up, a little rust (also touched up) in a couple of spots, but no major dents or dings. It rides very nicely, however, and it comes with a pretty nice looking Campy Nuevo Record drive train (rear and front derailleurs, crankset, and shifters).



I might keep the pedals and the computer, but everything else shown is included. I suppose if someone is looking for some kind of a bargain, I might need to take some of the newer, more expensive bits off and sell those separately.



This would be a good bike for someone who would enjoy a classic road bike that performs very well to do spirited rides. As shown, it weighs just under 22lbs (according to my bathroom scale). This might be a little more than the modern road bikes you might be able to buy for about $1000 at your local bike shop. But my guess is that this one will perform better. Maybe its just me, but I think the lively feel of old school steel is delightful.



I've got a lot more details if anyone is interested. I've got a copy of the Trek brochure from 1984 with the frame geometry. I can provide a more detailed parts/build list, and I can take measurements and photos upon request.

So $850 firm then (plus 1/2 shipping), unless of course you want to negotiate.

8 comments:

  1. According to the brochure, 56cm seat tube (center of BB to top of seat tube), and 56cm top tube (center to center).

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  2. Tempted. However, I think I need a slightly larger frame size. Also, there's the wife factor.

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  3. dickdavid, let me know if you'd like to look it over, check sizing, etc. I'll meet you somewhere. Not having to pack and ship might qualify for a "local buyer discount".

    Remember, it's red, and that's pretty fast.

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  4. I want to ride where ever you took those pictures. the wind rain snow and gunk in my part of the world is grating on me.

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  5. I have a question. You've no derailleur hanger there do you? I am doing a slow build here on this end; do I need a hanger or is it an optional feature?

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  6. Wilson, in my third photo from the top, you can almost see that my rear derailleur is bolted to a tab that extends down from the rear frame drop out. It is integral to the rear dropout. Frames designed for rear derailleurs commonly have such a tab. Whereas frames designed for single speed commonly do not. Does this answer your question? Or did I miss your point?

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  7. That does indeed answer my question. Thanks.
    I thought all bikes "required" a hanger, but my research (and your answer to my question) has shown me that its not the case.
    You see, I presently have one bicycle and it has an aluminum frame. I have come to learn that all such frames need the hanger because it provides the weak point in case of overstress. However, the frame I am building is steel and doesn't need the hanger (it has the tab).
    Thanks for your reply. This whole BLOGing community is really teaching me a lot.

    Cheers.

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